Strip folding and guiding attachment for sewing-machines.



A. LAUBSGHER.

STRIP FOLDING AND GUIDING ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING MACHINES. APPLICATIONFILED 111111.30, 1911,

Patented Jan. 30, 1912.

3 SHEETS-SHEET l.

A. LAUBSGHER. STRIP FOLDING AND GUIDING ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING' MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAR. 30, 1911.

Patented Jan. 30, 1912.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

WITNESSES.-

A TTOR/VEV COLUMBIA PLANonR/um cu.. WASHINGTON. D. c.

A. LAUBSCHER. STRIP FOLDING AND GUIDING ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING MACHINES.

APPLIOATIO N IIL ED MAR. 80, 1911. 1,015,967.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

WITNESSES:

1 v 7 By ATTORNEY COLUMHIA'PLANOGRAPN cu, wAsmNm'uN, u c.

Patented Jan. 30, 1912.

pairs sma'rsra'rn'r sic.

ALEXANDER LAUBSCI-IER, OF BRIDGEPORT, CONNECTICUT, ASSIGNOR TO THESINGER MANUFACTURING COMPANY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

STRIP FOLDING AND GUIDING ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING-MACHINES.

Application filed March 30, 1911.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, ALEXANDER LAUB- SOHER, acitizen of the United States, residing at Bridgeport, in the county ofFairfield and State of Connecticut, have invented certain new and usefulImprovements in Strip Folding and Guiding At tachments forSewing-Machines, of which the following is a specification, referencebeing had therein to the accompanying drawings.

This invention relates to improvements in strip folding and guidingattachments for sewing machines, and has to do primarily with theapplication of facings or button and buttonhole strips tomens and womensgarments, more particularly those made of knit fabrics.

Heretofore in the manufacture of the cheaper grades of under garments,it has been the common practice to secure the upper or neck end of thefacing strip to the garment by one or more lines of stitching placedacross and close to the raw edge of the facing strip, which finish, evenwhen executed with great care, is unsightly.

In the manufacture of the finer and more expensivegarments, the facingstrip is separately folded and stitched, making it self finished, and islater applied to the garment; but owing to the number of opera tionsnecessary, this method is comparatively expensive and impractical inconnection with the manufacture of the cheaper productions. The presentinvention provides means for folding-and stitching, or for folding,stitching and applying a facing strip in a single operation, thusmaterially improving the finish of the cheaper grades and effecting asubstantial reduction in the cost of the more expensive grades ofgarments.

In the accompanying drawings illustrating the invention, in the severalfigures of which like parts are similarly designated, Figure 1 is a viewin front side elevation of a sewing machine equipped with the presentinvention. Fig. 2 is a front end elevation of the bracket arm shown inFig. 1, together with a portion of the sewing machine bed-plate, thearmface-plate being omitted to bring to view the means for actuating thecloth-feeding foot and vibrating cloth-presser. Fig. 3 is a perspectiveof the front end portion of the bracket arm and Specification of LettersPatent.

Patented Jan. 30, 1912.

Serial No. 617,837.

sewing machine bed-plate, together with the improved mechanismandpartially finished product. Fig. 4 is a rear side View of thestrip-folding guide and the bracket upon which it is pivoted. Fig. 5 isa perspective of the fold-positioning blade carried by the strip-foldingguide. Fig. 6 is a perspective of the cloth-feeding foot and vibratingcloth-presser shown in Figs. 2 and 3. Fig. 7 is a perspective of thebody fabric positioning blade, illustrating the body fabric in positionto be presented to the action of the stitch-forming and cloth-feedingmechanism. Fig. 8 is a portion of body fabric and attached facing strip,the latter, at the neck end, being turned back from the body fabric tobetter illustrate the relationship of the folds formed in said fabricand said strip.

As the stitch-forming mechanism of the sewing machine herein illustratedis of ordinary construction and the cloth-feeding foot and vibratingcloth-presser are given movements by means common to such machines, itis thought sufficient to refer only to such parts as are important to anunderstanding of the invention.

Referring to the drawings, 1 represents the bed-plate of the sewingmachine upon which is mounted the bracket arm comprising the armstandard 2 and arm 3, 4: the needle-bar mounted in the head 5 of the arm3 and carrying at its lower end complemental eye-pointed needles ofusual construction, said needle-bar being operatively connected, by theneedle-bar link 6, with the main or needle-bar-driving shaft 7.

8 is the needle thread take-up, 9 the needle thread take-up cam carriedby the main shaft 7, 10, 10 needle thread tensions,

11 the needle thread-controller, and 12 the feed-dog.

In the present instance a vibrating clothpresser l7 and a cloth-feedingfoot 18 are employed, the former being carried by the commonly-employedspring-pressed presserbar 19, and the cloth-feeding foot by theoscillating feeding foot. carrier 20. The mechanism for giving feedmovements to said cloth-feeding foot and vertical movements to saidcloth-presser is the same as that illustrated and described in U. S.patent to A. Steward, No. 662,505, dated November 27, 1900, except thatthe spring 21 of the present construction is substituted for the springd of the patent; accordingly, further l'CfGl'QIlCQ to the elementscomprising such mechanism is deemed unnecessary.

22 represents a strip-folding guide secured by screws, as 23, to an arm2st, which latter is pivoted by stud screw '25 and nut 26 to a bracket27 which in turn is secured by screws, as 28, to the head of the arm 3,said puide being provided with an opening 29 for the passage of thestrip or facing, and with folding scrolls 30 and 31 for forming; thefolds at the migitudinal edges of blade 48 are formed, oppositelyarranged said strip.

From the foregoing it 's to be understood that the strip-folding guideis adjustable into and out of operative relationship with the needleactuation, as illustrated in Figs. 2 and 3, respectively. the facing orstrip be ing led from a suitable supply through the opening 29 and outthrough the delivery end with its edges folded as shown in Fig. 3', andas said guide adjusted from its inoperative to its operative position,the lower free end of the facing strip shown in Fig. 3 is caused to hefolded as shown in Fig. 2, through its lower end coming in contactwiththe upper surface of the body fabric or the upper sin-face of the throatplate, dependent upon the nature of the product.

32 represents a fold-positioning blade, the upper edge of which issecured to a metal strip 33 provided with ears 34-, and 35. the ear 34being pivotally attached, by pivot screw 36, to an arm 37 secured byscrew 88 upon a crank shaft 39, which latter is mounted in lugs ilt) andd-l secured on said strip-folding guide, in which manner the ear 35 isalso operatively connected with said crank-shaft. Upon the shaft 39 ismounted a spiral spring 4-2 which is held a gainst turning by one of itsends entering a suitable opening: (not shown) in the lug +i1, theopposite end of said spring entering an opening 4-3 formed in the collar44:. The spring 42 is torsioned by said collar and is secured by screwl5 to resiliently hold the fold-presenting blade in elevated position,as shown in 3 and -l, a spring l6 acting on the ear 35 to hold the loweredge of said blade against said strip-folding guide. thus when saidfold-positioning blade is rocked downwardly through the manipulation ofthe crank shaft 39. the lower end of said blade enters the fold 13 (seeFigs. 2 and 8) and carries it against the con'iplemei'ital needles,after which the blade is returned by the spring 42 to its normalposition, a screw 47 threaded into the b acket '27 acting to registerthe strip-foldingguide in operative relationship with said needle.

Having described the means for folding and presentingthe facing strip tothe stitchforming' and cloth-feeding mechanism, there will now bedescribed the means employed for positioning, guiding and feeding thebody fabric when it is desired to fold. stitch and apply the i'i'acinostrip in one operation.

48 represents the body fabric positioning blade provided with anextended portion 45) secured by screws. as 50, to the swinging arm 51.,the latter being pivotally attachtal by screw 52 to the bracket 53,which in turn is adjustably secured by screw 54: to the bedplate 1, thescrew 55 threaded into the arm 51 and abutting the edge of the bracket53 acting to limit the movement of said blade in the direction of theneedles. Upon the flanges 56 and 5?, provided with the respective prongsand 59, and upon suitable bosses (30 and 61 are secured by screws, as62, the respective spring blades (33 and G-t. the free ends of thelatter being notched, as at (35 and (3C, and the outer edge of each ofsaid blades being cut. away, as at (37 and 6S, and in the edge 69 ofsaid body fabric positioning blade are formed circular notches 70 and71, all for purpose now to be explained in connection with the operationof the improved mechanism. and for this pur: pose there is hereinillustrated sutlicient of the body portion of a knit under garment todemonstrate the folding. positioning and stitching on of a buttonholefacing strip.

The body portion 72 is first placed in the positioning blade 48, asshown in Fig. '7, with the edge 73 substantially in alinement with theedge 69 of the blade +18, and is held against displacement by thetoothed end 66 of the blade (3% and the prong 58. the blade occupyingsubstantially the position illustrated in Fig. 3 when receiving saidbody portion, when the blade 48 is moved. forfard sutliciently to bringthe edge 73 slightly past the line of needle actuation, the notches TOand 71 serving to insure that the needles will pierce the fabric intheir descent. irfter the fabric has been positioned as just described,the needles are moved into it and the blade 48 is returned to its normalposition. The positioning of the body fab- .ric is followed by adjustingthe strip-folding guide 22 to the position shown in Fig. 2, whichadjustment effects the fold 13 in the strip 75 (see Figs. 2 and 8), whenthe foldpositioning blade 32 is operated to carry the fold 13 againstthe complemental needles, after which the spring 42 returns the blade 32to its normal position. followed by adjusting the cloth-feeding foot andvibrating cloth presser into operative relationship with the fabric,when the stitching operation is commenced. the edge guide T6 acting tohold toe edges 77 and 7 S in vertical alinement; and after the seamshave been advanced the required distance, the operator adjusts the.strip-folding guide and severs the facing strip, as shown in Fig. 3,after which the stitch formation is continued to the end of the facing.

In the manufacture of mens knit under garments, it is common to placethe buttonhole strip as herein shown, while in-the manufacture of womensunder garments the strip is usually placed in the opposite position oron the opposite side of the opening, and to meet these requirements aspring blade 63 complemental to the blade Get, a prong 59 complementalto the prong 58, and an edge guide 7 9 complemental to the guide 7 6 areprovided, the edge guide not in use being held above the fabric bypositioning its lower edge in one of the notches SO, formed in thevibrating cloth-presser 17, as best shown in Figs. 2 and 6.

In applying a substantially inelastic woven facing to a knit fabric, itis important that the latter be advanced to the needle actuation in itsnormal condition, to which end the divided sections or fingers S1, 82and S3 of the cloth-feeding foot are caused to grip the superposedfabrics in advance of the needles (see Fig. 3), so that when the feedingfoot is carried back by the action of the feed-dog, said fabrics areheld against displacement with respect to each other, the extendedport-ions or fingers S-i and 85 of the vibrating cloth-presser acting,in connection with the needle plate 86, to grip said fabrics during theperiod that the clothfeeding foot is being returned to its forward orfeeding position.

Claims:

1. In a fabric guide for sewing machines, an adjustably-mountedstrip-folding guide provided with means for folding theoppositelyarranged longitudinal edges of a facing strip, the adjustmentof said guide from its inoperative to its operative position serving tolay a fold across the end of said facing strip, in combination with anadjustably-mounted fold-positioning blade for positioning the end foldof said facing strip in operative relationship with the stitchformingand cloth-feeding mechanism of the sewing machine.

2. In a fabric guide for sewing machines, a strip-folding guide pivotedupon the bracket arm of the sewing machine, said guide being providedwith means for folding the oppositely-arranged longitudinal edges of afacing strip, the adjustment of said guide from its inoperative to itsoperative position serving to lay a fold across the end of said facingstrip, in combination with an adjustably-mounted fold-presenting bladefor positioning the end fold of said facing strip in operativerelationship with the stitch-forming and cloth-feeding mechanism of thesewing machine.

3. In a fabric guide for sewing machines, a strip-folding guide pivotedupon the bracket arm of the sewing machine, said guide being providedwith means for folding the oppositely-arranged longitudinal edges of afacing strip, the adjustment of said guide from its inoperative to itsoperative position serving to lay a fold across the end of said facingstrip,in combination with a fold-positioning blade pivoted upon saidstrip-folding guide to position the end fold of said facing strip inoperative relation ship with the stitch-forming and cloth-feedingmechanism of a sewing machine.

4. In a fabric guide for sewing machines, an adjustably-mountedfabric-presenting blade for presenting the body fabric to the action ofthe stitch-forming and cloth-feeding mechanism, an adjustably-mountedstrip-folding guide provided with means for folding theoppositely-arranged longitudinal edges of a facing strip, the adjustmentof said guide from its inoperative to its operative position serving tolay a fold across the endof said facing strip, in combination with anadjustably-mounted foldpositioning blade .for positioning the end foldof said facing strip in operative relationship with said stitch-formingand clothfeeding mechanism.

In a fabric guide for sewing machines, the combination of an adjustablefabricpresenting blade mounted on the bed-plate of the sewing machinefor presenting a body fabric to the action of the stitch-forming andclothfeeding mechanism, a strip-folding guide pivoted upon the bracketarm of the sewing machine and provided with means for folding theoppositely-arranged longitudinal edges of a facing strip, the adjustment of said guide from its inoperative to its operative positionserving to lay a fold across the end of said facing strip, and afoldpositioning blade pivoted upon said strip-folding guide forpositioning the end fold of said facing strip in operative relationshipwith said stitch-forming and clothfeeding mechanism.

6. In a fabric guide for sewing machines, an adj ustably mounted fabric-.presenting blade for presenting a body fabric to the action of thestitch-forming and cloth-feeding mechanism, said blade being providedwith an edge guide for determining the relationship of the seamformation with respect to said body portion, and an adjustably-mountedstrip-folding guide provided with means for folding theoppositely-arranged longitudinal edges of a facing strip, the adjustmentof said strip-folding guide from its inoperative to its operativeposition serving to lay a fold across the end of said facing strip, incombination with an adjustably-mounted fold-presenting blade forpositioning the end fold of said facing strip in stitching relationshipwith said body fabric.

7. In a fabric guide for sewing machines, a cloth-feeding foot, avibrating presser-- foot provided with an edge guide, anadjustably-mounted strip-folding guide prorided with means for foldingthe oppositelyarranged longitudinal edges of a facing strip, theadjustment of said strip-folding guide from its inoperative to itsoperative position serving to lay fold across the end of said facingstrip, in combination with an adjustably mounted fold presenting bladefor positioning the end fold of said facing strip in operativerelationship with the feed ing mechanism of the sewing ma chine.

S. In a fabric guide for sewing machines, a clothateeding foot, avibrating presserfoot ,prm ided with an edge guide, an adjustablv-nnninted fabricpresenting blade for presenting the body fabric to theaction of the stitch-for1ning and cloth-feeding mtazhanism, anadjustably-mounted strip-- fcldin g guide provided with means forfolding the oppositely-arranged longitudinal edges of a :ii'acing strip,the adjustment of said strip-folding guide from its inoperatire to itsoperative position serving to la y a fold across the end of said facingstrip and an adjustably-mounted fold-presenting blade for positioningthe end fold of said facing strip in stitching relationship with saidbody portion.

9. In a fabric guide for sewing machines the combination of afabrie-presenting blade provided with means for positioning the bodyfabric with respect to the stitch-form ing and cloth-feeding mechanism,an adjustably mounted strip-folding guide provided with means forfolding the oppositely-an Copies of this patent may be obtained for fivecents ranged longitudinal edges of a facing strip, the adjustment ofsaid guide from its inoperative to its operative position serving to laya fold across the end of said facing strip, and a fold-presenting bladefor presenting the end fold of said facing strip to the action of saidstitch-forming and elothfeeding mechanism.

10. In a fabric guide for sewing machines, the combination of afaln'ic-prescnting blade provided with. means for positioning the bodyfabric with respect to the stitch-form ing and cloth-feeding mechanismsand with needle-receiving notches to insure that the needles will.pierce the body fabric in their descent next subsequent to thepositioning of said body fabric, an adjustably mounted strip-foldingguide provided with means for folding the oppositely-arrangedlongitudinal edges of a facing strip, the adjustment of said guide fromits inoperative to its oncratire position sewing to lay a fold acrossthe end of said facing strip, and a fold-presenting blade for presentingthe end fold of said facing strip to the action of said stitchformingand cloth-feeding mechanisn'l.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this wecification, in thepresence of two subscribing witnesses.

ALEXANDER LAUBSCHER.

lVitnesses Annie M. DONIHEE,

James J. COX.

each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents,

Washington, D. C.

